Premium shirting fabric begins with fibre—its length, strength, purity, and how it responds to
weaving. Among all natural cottons, Egyptian Cotton and Giza Cotton remain the
benchmark of luxury. This guide gives the fundamentals of Egyptian and Giza cotton,
explains yarn count, and clarifies why these fibres are preferred for bespoke menswear.
What Defines Egyptian Cotton?
“Egyptian Cotton” originally referred to cotton grown exclusively along the Nile Delta, where the soil composition and climate naturally support long-staple and extra-long-staple fibres.
True Egyptian Cotton is characterised by:
- Long or Extra-Long Staple (ELS) fibres
- Superior strength due to longer fibre length
- Exceptional smoothness after mercerising
- High durability and resistance to pilling
The longer the staple, the finer and stronger the yarn that can be spun. This results in fabrics with:
- Cleaner surface
- Higher tensile strength
- Engineered comfort in heat and humidity
For bespoke shirting, Egyptian Cotton provides structure without heaviness—an essential combination for India’s climate.
What Is Giza Cotton?
“Giza” is the classification of specific Egyptian cotton varieties. Not all Egyptian cotton is Giza, but all Giza is Egyptian.
Giza cottons are graded by number, each representing a specific varietal with distinct properties.
Key Giza Varieties Used in Luxury Shirting
Giza 45 – The Queen Of Egyptian Cottons
- Staple Length: ~36 mm (Exceptional ELS)
- Softness: Highest
- Strength: Very high
- Use: Ultra-premium shirting (Thomas Mason Gold Line)
Produces yarns for 170s, 200s, and sometimes 240s shirtings. Rare and extremely expensive.
Giza 87 – The Durable Luxury
- Staple Length: 36 mm
- Character: More robust than Giza 45
- Use: Dress shirts with longevity and lustre
Perfect balance of luxury and durability, ideal for bespoke shirts worn frequently.
Giza 88 – Versatile And Balanced
- Staple Length: ~35 mm
- Character: Smooth, breathable, consistent
- Use: Dailywear, business shirts
This cotton holds colour brilliantly and has minimal pilling.
Giza 92 – Modern Hybrid Cotton
- Staple Length: ~34 mm
- Character: Designed for high performance
- Use: Contemporary shirting requiring comfort stretch or blended performance Ideal for humid climates because of its breathability.
Giza 96 – Affordable, Good-Quality LS Cotton
- Staple Length: ~32 mm
- Character: Slightly shorter staple, more structure
- Use: Entry-level premium shirting
Still superior to most non-Egyptian cottons.
Staple Length Explained
Staple length = the length of each cotton fibre.
Longer the staple, smoother the yarn and stronger the fabric.
Staple Length Categories
- Short Staple (SS): < 26 mm – coarse, used for basic fabrics
- Long Staple (LS): 27–32 mm – decent quality shirting
- Extra-Long Staple (ELS): 33–40 mm – premium, luxury shirting
Giza 45, 87, 88, 92 sit in the ELS category, making them ideal for high-quality bespoke shirts.
Long staples reduce fibre ends sticking out of the yarn, resulting in:
- A cleaner, silkier surface
- Higher durability
- Higher possible yarn counts
- Less pilling
- Better drape and longevity
Yarn Count: 60s, 80s, 100s, 140s, 200s Explained
Yarn count describes the fineness of the yarn used in weaving the fabric. Higher count = finer yarn = lighter, smoother, more premium fabric.
Common Counts In Premium Shirting
| Yarn Count | Feel | Use |
| 60s | Structured, strong | Casual shirts, workwear |
| 80s | Soft, smooth | Business shirts |
| 100s | Refined, breathable | Formalwear |
| 120s | Luxurious, lighter | Premium bespoke shirts |
| 140s | Very fine | Luxury shirting |
| 170s–200s | Ultra-fine, delicate | High luxury, occasional wear |
How Fibre Affects Yarn Count
Giza 45 and Giza 87 can be spun into:
● 100s to 200s yarn
Lower-quality fibres cannot maintain these fine counts without breaking.
This is why mills such as Albini and Thomas Mason use Giza cotton for their top lines.
Egyptian Vs. Giza Cotton: The Practical Difference
| Feature | Egyptian Cotton | Giza Cotton |
| Definition | All cotton grown in Egypt | Specific elite varieties grown in Nile Delta |
| Quality Range | LS to ELS | Mostly ELS |
| Best Varieties | Giza 45, 87, 88 | Industry gold standard |
| Price | Wide range | Consistent premium pricing |
| Durability | High | Very high |
| Use in Bespoke | Business + premium shirts | High luxury shirts |
Which Cotton Is Best For India?
India’s climate demands shirts that:
- Resist humidity
- Maintain structure
- Feel cool and dry
Recommended For Daily Wear
- Giza 88
- Giza 92
- Giza 87 (for executives)
Counts: 80s, 100s, 120s
These offer:
- Heat-regulating breathability
- Excellent moisture absorption
- Softness without fragility
Recommended For Luxury Wear
- Giza 45
Counts: 140s, 170s, 200s
For special occasions and refined luxury—not daily use in Indian humidity.
Avoid for daily Indian climate:
- Ultra-high-count fabrics (170s–240s)
They wrinkle faster and feel too delicate for regular wear.
Why Egyptian & Giza Cotton Elevate Bespoke Shirting
A bespoke shirt is shaped through pattern engineering, collar geometry, and hand-finished sleeves—but the foundation is always the fibre. Egyptian and Giza cottons provide the ideal characteristics for a luxury shirt: long staple, breathability, strength, and the ability to achieve high yarn counts without losing structure.
For a bespoke menswear brand, especially in India, the optimal selection remains:
- Giza 88, Giza 92, and Giza 87
- Yarn counts 80s to 140s
In the world of bespoke menswear, true luxury is never accidental—it is engineered from the fibre up. Whether it is the precision of Super wool or the purity of Egyptian and Giza cotton, every material carries its own philosophy of comfort, longevity, and refinement. By understanding these foundations, you’re not just choosing a fabric—you’re choosing how your shirt will look, feel, and perform for years.
At Shubham Shinde, we translate these fibres into garments that honour craftsmanship, precision, and individuality. Your shirt begins with the world’s finest fibres; the rest is shaped by us, tailored for you.
